THE ABOVE VIDEO IS OF MANNUALLY COMPACTED EARTH INSTEAD WET COMPACTION/CURE
OF A CEMMENT MIXED ADOBE , BUT IT IS A GOOD GUIDE PLUS THEY TOO END WITH A GREEN ROOF , another good visual aid in creating
postive expectation
HOW LONG WOULD IT TAKE TO HAVE THE MONEY READY IN THE
BANK , SO YOU HAVE NO MORTAGE TO HAVE A 5 ACRE ESTATE WITH 5 HOMES AND A POND .
HOW MANY YEARS WOULD YOU HAVE TO SAVE ALL YOUR MONEY TO HAVE SOME ONE ELSE BUILD IT FOR YOU ? 40 YEARS WORKING
AJOB YOU HATE ?
IT WILL TAKE 3 YEARS TO BUILD EVERY THING
BASED UPON THE 10 SECOND MODEL OF 1 SCOOP OF DIRT DUG PER 10 SECONDS PLACED ON THE TRAILER TO MOVED INTO THE BUILDING CYCLE.
THE TRAILER CARRYS 20 CUBIC FEET , THE CEMEMNT MIXER PROCESSES
5 CUBIC FEET ,
.
1 LOAD DUG AND PLACE IN THE MORNING SHOULD TAKE ABOUT 1 HOUR BEFORE YOU GO TO WORK , THEN DO 1 OR MAYBE 2 MORE LOADS
WHEN YOU GET HOME . IN 2 TO 3 YEARS IT IS ALL DONE.
NOW GET SOME FRIENDS TOGETHER ON WEEKENDS HERE AND THERE AND CUT THAT DOWN TO A YEAR AND HALF
AS COMPARED TO 40 YEARS IN THE PLAN YOU HAVE CURRENTLY ACCEPTED THE
REGULAR LIFE STYLE .... BUT HERE IS SOME DATA EXPERIENCE ABOUT MOVING DIRT ..... ABOUT DIGGING A 1/4 POND ....
also
have a Kubota B2710. I wouldn't attempt it unless you are moving very soft dirt. Even then it would take a long time. Around
here you could have that dug with a bulldozer for $1,000 to $1,500. If the pond is for fish everything I read says it should
be a minimum of 8 feet deep, otherwise you could have oxygen problems for the fish, especially you have hot summers. One
recommendation though regardless of who does the work. Scrape that topsoil off and put it in a pile and use it or sell it
later. Its like gold. I have more than acre of good topsoil covered up by yellow clay fill dirt because I failed to have the
dirt guy save my topsoil. Now I find that its about $10 a yard. When I had all my dirtwork done, including a 1.5 acre,
12-foot deep pond, I was quoted 90 cents per cubic yard of dirt moved. This is probably more expensive than average, but I
wanted this particular guy to do my work and I'm not disappointed. The tank was dug in August and after all these rains in
North Texas this winter it is filled to brim and is beautiful - it has inlets and hardly any dam at all, plus a well-designed
spillway. A friend of mine had a small pond similar to what you're talking about quoted at $800 by a guy who has a bulldozer.
He thought that was too high!
click this for more video on the pond bulding page , remember time you got $$ you do not and if in a year or so you have the $ 50per hr so figure 5 or
7 grand to hire some one for a week or two to dig well then great . until then you can DIY'it
EACH LINEAR FOOT OF BUILDING NEEDS ABOUT 21 CUBIC
TOTAL MATERIAL , OF WHIHC 2 FOOT WILL BE PORTLAND CEMMENT AT A COST OF ABOUT $6 CFT BAGS GOODS PALLET PRICE , OR ABOUT $1800.00
PER HOME
NEW INFO AND PRICING NOV.09 YOU MAYBE ABLE TO GET THE POND
DUG 100X100 FOR LIKE 2 GRAND AND 1 MORE TO HAVE THE DIRT MOVED TO HOMESITE PADS AND MOUNDED OUT SIDE OF THE 4 CORNERS AND
BUYING A MACHINE FOR DIY FOR $3,00O MAYBE A WASTE OF TIME AND $$ , YOU NEED TO SHOP LOCAL PRICING
Of course work with your engeneer , but by putiing standard concrete colums at eery 8 foot with
a regular concrete footer and tie beam comparable to what you have in normal CBS construstion ... 8 or 10 inch wide
for the colums and tie beam and the footer for a stem wall is often 12 inch by 12 ... the rest is NON structural
WALL material ...
now do some research about NATURAL CEMENT .... and ASH ,,,
you may have local limestone or marl that you can burn and add the resuting ash also to your ADOBE ... and lower your
portland mix , test studys will hae to be made locally .... pit burning your local limestone witht he loods and leaf
form site clearing , most imporatnt is to store the ash mix water tight everyday ..to maintain the reactive potential .
A STUPID IL'
VIDEO BUT ALL THE SAME IT JUST SHOWS YOU WHAT IS POSSIBLE , WITH A $200 MIXER
Enter content here
BOTTOM 2 FEET IS 4 FOOT WIDE , THE NEXT 2 FOOT
OF HIEGHT IS 3 FOOT WIDE , THE FOLLOWING 4 FOOT OF HIEGHT IS 2 FOOT WIDE , DIRECT POUR THE FIRST 2 FORMS FROM MIXER INSIDE
THE HOUSE , YOU MAY NEED TO RAISE MIXER FOR THE SECOND COURSE .
MOVE MIXER OUTSIDE POUR SLURRY INTO 3 OR 4 BUCKETS , LIFT BUCKEST
ON THE THE 3 FOOT EDGE TO BE LIFTED AND AND TURNED UP SIDE DOWN IN FORMS TO EMPTY .
THE VIDEO BELOW SHOWS A SIMILIAR IDEA USING MECHANICAL COMPACTION FOR FAST WALL COMPLETION
, WET SETTLING COMPACTION WILL TAKE A MONTH TO CURE. MIXING THE CEMMENT IN THE EARTH PROVIDES SIMILIAR WEATHERING IF A FINAL
PROTECTIVE COATING IS ADDED ( paint )
a water system will transfer heat better , but an simple air system will have less chance of problems
long term
ok this video is for exposure just to open your mind , these uys are doing something a bit different
, for 1 they do not add chopped straw , the mix procedures will vary with available materials , you may want to dry mix straw
and all then add the water , direct poured into wall form can allow for a wetter/watery slurry