All kept in relatively small numbers will take care of most all of your INSECT AND PEST problems INCLUDING SNAKES
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GuineafowlGuinea fowl are an all-round asset on a smallholding.
The only downer is the weird and noisy noise they make -- and even that's an asset, because they're better watchdogs
than watchdogs are (as good as geese). And you get used to the row. Guineafowl need very little care -- just leave them alone,
they do what they like, feed themselves, look after themselves, and lay about the best eggs going. Smallish but rich and delicious!
-- as they should be, nurtured on a rich and varied diet of insects and weed seeds. They effectively keep the pests down.
Guinea fowl are THE best control for ticks.
Guinea
Fowl for Tick Control -- "The second year we were here, we
purchased a few guinea fowl. Ticks have been very rare in our life since then." Good basic tips on free-range guinea
fowl.
They're not petsYou can get very fond of these birds. Distinguish
at an early stage between birds for breeding and birds for eating: you can give the breeders names, but DON'T name the
meat birds, and don't let them charm you too much. Keep it in mind what fate you have in store for them!
Children
can accept this as long as you're completely honest and forthright about it right from the start. Don't euphemize.
If you don't eat them they'll breed you out of house and home. If you can't stand the thought of killing
them, then don't let them breed, just take all the eggs. Or get someone else to do it for you. You can learn slaughtering
from a book, though it's better to get someone to show you
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| link to great info |

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| about this duck |
Muscovies are unique, the only domestic ducks that aren't derived from mallards. They come from South America and
they're tree birds rather than water birds. So they don't need a pond to swim in (they do need water, but a large
basin will do). And they fly. They're bigger and heavier than other ducks, and flying gives them large and powerful breast
muscles, and strong, meaty legs. Muscovy breast looks like a fair-sized steak, you wouldn't guess it was duck. THEY
LOVE TO EAT MOSQUITOES !
If you've only eaten industrial chickens up till now, then you really don't know what a chicken tastes like. A true
free-range chicken from an organic smallholding or a backyard bird raised on scraps and scratchings is quite different --
you'll be amazed! And delighted.
Chickens are a must on farms of any size, and the ideal bird where space is
limited. They scratch -- once, twice -- sharp eyes spot little bugs and tiny weed seeds, the beak darts down. Try to arrange
it so that chickens get to work over your whole place every season, along with the ducks.
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Rabbits breed like, well, like rabbits. They breed all year and the gestation period is only a month or less -- soon
you'll have lots of rabbits. One buck to up to 10 does, but you have to keep them apart. You have to keep bucks apart
too: rabbits fight. And they burrow under fences. Free-ranging is out, but grazing arks work well. Good meat production but
not trouble-free. If you have children they'll do the work for you -- children love rabbits.

-- "Do you know how to kill a chicken?" Granny
Choi asked. "Of course I do," Keith replied. "You take it by the head and chop its body off." Decapitation is probably the best way, especially for beginners. Cutting their throats
works well, and is probably just as instant. Reflex flapping makes both these ways messy. The non-messy way is to wring (break)
their necks, but it takes practise to get it right and it's rough on the birds while you climb your learning curve. Maybe
you know someone who can show you how.
Kill birds well away from the rest of the flock, take them away one at time
-- don't make them wait in line for what they know is going to happen.
Head Use a cleaver, the heavier the better, and keep it sharp. Use a big, heavy piece
of timber as a chopping block. Hammer a nail into it near one end. Tie a short length of thin rope to the nail and put a noose
in the other end. Lay the bird down on its back on the block, put the noose round its neck and tighten it -- not too tight.
Hold the bird by the legs and pull it away from the nail so it can't move but isn't stretched. If you stroke its chest
a bit and make gentle, reassuring noises it'll relax and probably close its eyes. Now's your chance. It needs a single,
swift, well-aimed and decisive blow. Keep hold of the legs, hold the bird away from you until the reflex flapping stops.
Throat Use a sharp knife with a longish blade (not serrated). Take the bird by the feet and let it hang
upside down for awhile. It will soon calm down and relax. Then hang it from a pole or rail about 6ft from the ground. Tie
a thin rope to the rail and loop it a few times round the bird's feet. You can secure it with a short stick tied to the
rope, tuck the stick between the legs. Take the head firmly but gently in one hand and cut across the throat about an inch
below the head with a single, strong, sweeping cut. Step back and wait for it to stop flapping.
Plucking Dip the carcase in hot water
to loosen the feathers -- not too hot or you'll scald it and the skin will tear. If there's down, pluck the bird on
a table and collect the down with a vacuum cleaner. Compost the feathers. Offal to the compost bin or the pig. Another option
is to skin the bird, feathers and all
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